Authentic Mongolian Adventure

Typically, April through September is the Mongolia travel time. The weather is good, and the people and livestock population are active. However, don’t turn your back on winter. Ulaanbaatar, the capital, makes many “coldest cities in the world” lists and it is known as the coldest national capital. There is cold and then there is Mongolia cold. These low temperatures and the resultant frozen lakes and river and snow provide opportunities for hearty folks dressed appropriately.  

After shopping at the State Department Store and Gobi Cashmere and a Korean dinner followed by a night at the Novotel, let’s leave Ulaanbaatar and its polluted winter air and spend a few days in the countryside. Traffic is light, the skies are clear, and the Land Cruiser is heated. The first stop is Hustai National Park, an hour or so off the main road.

Through winter, there is an occasional other vehicle looking for the same objective we had: the Przewalski horse. You might think a horse is a horse, but this is the last wild horse in the world. It was extinct in the wild but has been reintroduced to Mongolia and two other countries.

They can be seen throughout the year, but they typically come closer in the winter, and we were able to see a small herd. These animals have an interesting story and seeing them in the stark Mongolian landscape was a highlight, as was some tea and a hot lunch at the visitor’s center.

From Hustai to Lake Ugii is the next part of the journey. The first thrill is driving on the Lake and exploring the ice at sunset followed by a hearty meal at the hotel. Did I say hotel? It is a modest facility, but it is warm, hospitable, and the room is not luxurious but has indoor plumbing and is generally fine. Thinking about a sub-zero trek from a ger to a public restroom makes the room 7 stars.

After breakfast the next day, it is time to ice fish. Forget some of the ice fishing comforts found in other parts of the world; this is Mongolia! Fishermen are scattered around the lake and there is a typical pattern.

Very small hand-held rods or regular ice fishing rods along with hand drilled holes in the ice and hooks or lures augmented with small worms form the ice fishing experience. There might be a small tent or folding chair for comfort. Fishing is fishing and we caught one fish, but the experience was wonderful. The fish also found its way into lunchtime soup.

Back in the car and back to Ulaanbaatar for a night and then another 60 or so kilometers to Terelj National Park the next day. There are quite a few hotels in this area and the opportunity to experience some winter activities. The scenery is spectacular, the hiking is good, and the air is clean.

The last point is important. As mentioned, Ulaanbaatar winter air can be very polluted, so it is best to breathe as little of it as possible. An early morning flight awaited the next morning, and the airport can be reached in about an hour without returning to Ulaanbaatar.

Spend a night in the capital and then enjoy the rolling landscape and clean air of the steppes. October to March offer harsh winter weather and the travelling window is typically April through September.

My adventure took me to Central Mongolia for five days. Vibrant cities and throngs of people don’t exist, unless you travel in July and August. Then you might find yourself stuck behind one, two, three or ten used Toyota Prius cars and sharing a full camp with Mongolians escaping the city for nature and fresh air. September is a different story as the kids are in school, the weather is typically good, and Central Mongolia is uncrowded.

Like in some novels and movies, the landscape is an important character in a Mongolia road trip. Some of the other protagonists are livestock, nomads, gers, birds, a driver and guide, and a few Mongolians that run tourist camps. There are some ruins and evidence of monasteries that once were, but it is really where they are more than what they are. The rolling, grassy hills and valleys that occasionally give way to trees, mountains, rock formations, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and gers are forever present.

Did I say ger? These are the traditional white Mongolian dwellings that are a semi-permanent tent. They dot the landscape along with horses, yaks, cattle, horses, sheep and goats. You might stay in a ger.

Camels make an appearance as well. Be prepared to stop while one of the above creatures cross the road. Finding a river or lake and casting a line is a nice activity and of course hiking and walking or riding a horse or camel. This landscape is very free as there are almost no fences and the terrain is such that you can walk anywhere, literally anywhere as nothing blocks your way.

Two of life’s essentials are eating and shopping Meat rhymes with eat. Mongolia serves ample portions of beef, chicken, goat, pork, mutton and yak. It is prepared simply but well. In the city, one can find Korean and other restaurants as well. Once full, or even before, head to the State Department Store in Ulaanbaatar and choose from a large cashmere selection as well as a fine array of souvenirs and Mongolian products. Mongolia is a great place to purchase cashmere.

Depending on where you are, accommodations vary. In Ulaanbaatar, there are hotels such as the Novotel. It is more than decent. In the countryside, you might stay in a Ger with a bathroom, one with a communal bathroom and various other arrangements. Guide and driver were magnificent and tend to every need and even a few more.

I’m tempted to say, “See you in Mongolia”. However, given the open space, I probably wouldn’t see you.