Mongolia's winter: uncover a hidden adventure

Typically, April through September is the Mongolia travel time. The weather is good, and the people and livestock population are active. However, don’t turn your back on winter. Ulaanbaatar, the capital, makes many “coldest cities in the world” lists and it is known as the coldest national capital. There is cold and then there is Mongolia cold. These low temperatures and the resultant frozen lakes and river and snow provide opportunities for hearty folks dressed appropriately.  

After shopping at the State Department Store and Gobi Cashmere and a Korean dinner followed by a night at the Novotel, let’s leave Ulaanbaatar and its polluted winter air and spend a few days in the countryside. Traffic is light, the skies are clear, and the Land Cruiser is heated. The first stop is Hustai National Park, an hour or so off the main road.

Through winter, there is an occasional other vehicle looking for the same objective we had: the Przewalski horse. You might think a horse is a horse, but this is the last wild horse in the world. It was extinct in the wild but has been reintroduced to Mongolia and two other countries.

They can be seen throughout the year, but they typically come closer in the winter, and we were able to see a small herd. These animals have an interesting story and seeing them in the stark Mongolian landscape was a highlight, as was some tea and a hot lunch at the visitor’s center.

From Hustai to Lake Ugii is the next part of the journey. The first thrill is driving on the Lake and exploring the ice at sunset followed by a hearty meal at the hotel. Did I say hotel? It is a modest facility, but it is warm, hospitable, and the room is not luxurious but has indoor plumbing and is generally fine. Thinking about a sub-zero trek from a ger to a public restroom makes the room 7 stars.

After breakfast the next day, it is time to ice fish. Forget some of the ice fishing comforts found in other parts of the world; this is Mongolia! Fishermen are scattered around the lake and there is a typical pattern.

Very small hand-held rods or regular ice fishing rods along with hand drilled holes in the ice and hooks or lures augmented with small worms form the ice fishing experience. There might be a small tent or folding chair for comfort. Fishing is fishing and we caught one fish, but the experience was wonderful. The fish also found its way into lunchtime soup.

Back in the car and back to Ulaanbaatar for a night and then another 60 or so kilometers to Terelj National Park the next day. There are quite a few hotels in this area and the opportunity to experience some winter activities. The scenery is spectacular, the hiking is good, and the air is clean.

The last point is important. As mentioned, Ulaanbaatar winter air can be very polluted, so it is best to breathe as little of it as possible. An early morning flight awaited the next morning, and the airport can be reached in about an hour without returning to Ulaanbaatar.