A Nomadic Adventure: Experiencing the Freedom and Beauty of Mongolia

Sandwiched between Russia and China, Mongolia occupies the space between two large and powerful nations. Three and a half million people occupy the 19th largest country, and most of these reside in the capital, Ulaanbaatar. Given some of the traffic jams, one might think all 3.5 million live in this city.

 

 

Spend a night in the capital and then enjoy the rolling landscape and clean air of the steppes. October to March offer harsh winter weather and the travelling window is typically April through September.

 

My adventure took me to Central Mongolia for five days. Vibrant cities and throngs of people don’t exist, unless you travel in July and August. Then you might find yourself stuck behind one, two, three or ten used Toyota Prius cars and sharing a full camp with Mongolians escaping the city for nature and fresh air. September is a different story as the kids are in school, the weather is typically good, and Central Mongolia is uncrowded.

 

 

Like in some novels and movies, the landscape is an important character in a Mongolia road trip. Some of the other protagonists are livestock, nomads, gers, birds, a driver and guide, and a few Mongolians that run tourist camps. There are some ruins and evidence of monasteries that once were, but it is really where they are more than what they are. The rolling, grassy hills and valleys that occasionally give way to trees, mountains, rock formations, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and gers are forever present.

 

 

Did I say ger? These are the traditional white Mongolian dwellings that are a semi-permanent tent. They dot the landscape along with horses, yaks, cattle, horses, sheep and goats. You might stay in a ger.

 

Camels make an appearance as well. Be prepared to stop while one of the above creatures cross the road. Finding a river or lake and casting a line is a nice activity and of course hiking and walking or riding a horse or camel. This landscape is very free as there are almost no fences and the terrain is such that you can walk anywhere, literally anywhere as nothing blocks your way.

 

 

Two of life’s essentials are eating and shopping Meat rhymes with eat. Mongolia serves ample portions of beef, chicken, goat, pork, mutton and yak. It is prepared simply but well. In the city, one can find Korean and other restaurants as well. Once full, or even before, head to the State Department Store in Ulaanbaatar and choose from a large cashmere selection as well as a fine array of souvenirs and Mongolian products. Mongolia is a great place to purchase cashmere.

 

 

Depending on where you are, accommodations vary. In Ulaanbaatar, there are hotels such as the Novotel. It is more than decent. In the countryside, you might stay in a Ger with a bathroom, one with a communal bathroom and various other arrangements. Guide and driver were magnificent and tend to every need and even a few more.

 

 

I’m tempted to say, “See you in Mongolia”. However, given the open space, I probably wouldn’t see you.